Wednesday, May 27 In search of the Bustard

Pics: Slate walls, Catedral in Trujillo, the Plaza Major at night

Up at six! And off without breakfast! Going on the advice in a report Bob found from some Brit birders on finding the Bustard, he decided to explore the steppes west of Trujillo. We set off with maps and GPS and headed towards the large town of Cáceres 30 miles away. We drove off onto tiny country roads, past small ranchos with goats, sheep and cattle, through wooded pastures lined with miles of slate walls piled five feet high, past grand haciendas with enclosed green courtyards. The land was very dry and brown and I felt sorry for the livestock trying to get enough to eat, but the land itself was quite beautiful with huge vistas of rolling grassland.

As we circled back and were almost back at Trujillo, we stopped by a wilder, un-grazed pasture, we saw about ten storks hunting for insects and suddenly Bob spotted a female Great Bustard!! About three feet high and ostrich-like she was slowly strolling through the brush and then we saw a half-grown chick following her! If that’s typical, it’s easy to understand why they’re going extinct. Anyway it was a thrill to see her after trying to find one on our last two trips to Spain. The male has famous courting dance in which he fluffs up his white under feathers to such an extent that it’s referred to as a “foam bath”! We have a few more days to try to see that!!

We got back to the Parador at 11:30, after breakfast and before lunch, and so wandered into the Plaza and found one café that would serve us toasted rolls topped with olive oil, tomato and ham, café con leche and fresh OJ. We set off through the Plaza and climbed up the steep streets to the castle on top of the hill in the center of town. We visited the Pizarro Museum and saw exhibits on his amazing five trips to Peru.
Back to our hotel for siestas. Up at 3:30 and realized the Parador bar was about to close at four and dashed down to the citrus-filled courtyard and ordered beer and split a bacon and cheese sandwich and sat there in the sunshine reading for an hour or so.
We walked to the Plaza to find supper and see the lights come on, but no place sounded as good as the Parador, so we returned and had delicious dinner of cold tomato soup with cumin and figs, and cod cooked with garlic and tomatoes. Back to the Plaza which was bustling for the first time and filled with cheering groups as Barcelona beat Manchester United for the European cup.